Cat Drinking More and Losing Weight? Diabetes Signs, Treatment, and Remission

Cat Drinking More and Losing Weight? Diabetes Signs, Treatment, and Remission

The water bowl empties faster, and the urine clumps in the litter box keep getting bigger. The cat is eating well, maybe more than usual, but the scale keeps creeping down. These changes tend to build over a few weeks, and together they are the most common early sign of diabetes in cats. Caught early, many cats can come off insulin entirely.

What feline diabetes is

Insulin, made by the pancreas, lets cells take in glucose from the blood and use it for energy. If there isn’t enough insulin, or the body stops responding to it, glucose stays in the bloodstream. Blood sugar climbs while the cells starve.

Most diabetic cats have a disease much like type 2 diabetes in people: the body responds less and less to insulin, and the cells in the pancreas that make insulin are overworked for so long that they start to fail.

Those cells can recover if the damage isn’t too deep yet. Get blood sugar under control early, give them a rest, and some start making insulin again. That’s why diabetes in cats can go into remission, and why the first months of treatment matter so much.

Who gets it

Roughly 1 in every 100 to 200 pet cats has diabetes, and most are diagnosed in middle age or later. Males and females look about equally likely. Burmese cats in Australia, the UK, and parts of Europe run about three to four times the usual risk.

The biggest risk you can actually change is weight: obese cats are about four times as likely to develop diabetes as lean cats. Indoor cats who don’t move much and eat a lot of high-carb dry food are also at higher risk. Some medications used long term can trigger diabetes too.

Plenty of slim cats develop diabetes, and plenty of overweight cats never do. Still, keeping a cat at a healthy weight is the most an owner can do for long-term health, and that includes diabetes. Our cat obesity guide covers how.

Signs to watch for

The early signs usually show up together:

  • Drinking noticeably more water
  • Larger or more frequent urine clumps in the litter box
  • Increased appetite, sometimes ravenous
  • Weight loss despite eating well

Any one of these on its own could be many things. Several together, in a cat over 7, mean it’s time for bloodwork. The usual causes are diabetes or hyperthyroidism, and a cat can have both.

Left longer, the picture flips. Cats that were eating more start eating less and lose muscle along the spine and shoulders. They get lethargic, and their coat looks unkempt because grooming feels like too much work.

In some cats, long periods of high blood sugar damage the nerves to the hind legs. The legs weaken and the hocks drop, so the cat walks flat on the whole back foot instead of up on its toes. This “plantigrade stance” isn’t common, and it usually improves once blood sugar is under control.

The most dangerous complication is diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). Cells that can’t use glucose push the body to break down fat fast, which produces acidic ketones. Cats in DKA become severely dehydrated, vomit, stop eating, and grow weak. Without emergency treatment, DKA is fatal.

Emergency signs. If a cat with known or suspected diabetes suddenly stops eating, vomits, becomes weak, or breathes fast, go to the vet now instead of watching at home. DKA can get worse within hours and needs hospital treatment.

How it’s diagnosed

Diabetes is harder to diagnose in cats than in dogs or people, because stress alone can push a cat’s blood glucose up. A frightened cat at the vet can test in the diabetic range without having diabetes at all, so one high reading doesn’t settle it.

Vets look for two things. One is blood glucose that stays high, even after the cat has settled or on repeat tests. The other is glucose in the urine, which only shows up after blood glucose has been high for a while. A stress spike passes quickly and usually doesn’t put glucose in the urine.

Another useful test is fructosamine, which reflects average blood glucose over the past two to three weeks and isn’t thrown off by a moment of stress. A high fructosamine, together with persistently high glucose, glucose in the urine, and matching signs, is what confirms the diagnosis.

Your vet will usually run a full blood panel too, checking the kidneys, liver, and thyroid, and looking for a urinary tract infection or pancreatitis. Some of these look like diabetes, and some tend to show up alongside it. Pancreatitis is especially common in diabetic cats and makes treatment more complicated.

Treatment options

Treatment usually combines medication, diet, and glucose monitoring. The medication is usually insulin, and some cats can take an oral drug instead. The right mix depends on the cat, what works for your household, and how early the disease was caught, and you’ll work it out with your vet.

Insulin

Insulin is the longest-used and most studied treatment. Owners usually give it at home as a small injection under the skin. The needles are tiny and most cats tolerate them with little fuss.

Getting the dose right takes several weeks, with your vet adjusting it from glucose results at rechecks. Too little and blood sugar stays high. Too much causes low blood sugar, which is more dangerous in the short term. So even if your cat seems much better, don’t change the dose yourself.

Oral medication

For a long time insulin was essentially the only option. In the last few years oral medications for diabetic cats have become available: a tablet or liquid once a day, no injections, no refrigeration. Availability varies by country.

These drugs come with strict conditions. In a cat who has had insulin before, or whose body can no longer make enough insulin, they can trigger ketoacidosis, and blood glucose can look normal while it happens, which makes it easy to miss. Some other health problems also rule them out, so your vet checks bloodwork first. Cats starting them need close follow-up in the first weeks and regular rechecks after that.

For a newly diagnosed cat who has never had insulin and is otherwise stable, that’s a lot more convenient. For other cats, insulin is the safer choice.

Diet

Cats are obligate carnivores, built for a high-protein, low-carbohydrate diet, and many dry foods are high in carbs. Moving a diabetic cat to a low-carb, high-protein diet, either a prescription food or a carefully chosen wet food, eases the load on the pancreas and makes blood sugar easier to control. The fewer carbs, the less insulin a cat usually needs and the better the odds of remission.

Change food gradually, especially with a fussy cat or one with other health problems. A sudden switch can make a cat stop eating, and a cat on insulin who doesn’t eat can go hypoglycemic.

Monitoring

You can’t tell how well blood sugar is controlled by looking at the cat; it has to be measured. With guidance from their vet, some owners check glucose at home, which avoids the stress spike of the clinic and shows more honestly how the current dose is working.

More vets now also use continuous glucose monitoring: a small sensor stuck to the skin that tracks glucose for up to about two weeks. It catches things a single reading misses, like low blood sugar overnight.

What your vet looks at is the trend over time, not any one number.

Diabetes in cats can go into remission

With good blood sugar control, a low-carb diet, and steady weight management, somewhere between a quarter and half of newly diagnosed cats come off insulin and keep normal blood glucose without medication. In cats treated aggressively within months of diagnosis and monitored closely at home, the figure has reached 50% to over 80%.

Remission means the insulin-making cells have rested enough to recover, and the cat no longer needs insulin. It isn’t a cure. The underlying tendency remains, and many cats relapse later, especially if they regain weight or get another illness. Still, a year or more without injections is common in cats treated early.

What matters most for remission is how soon treatment starts. The longer blood sugar stays high, the more insulin-making cells are damaged and the harder they are to recover. After six months of poor control, remission becomes much less likely, so take the diagnosis seriously from day one.

What you can do at home

I see a lot of diabetic cats at the clinic where I work. They’re usually hungry, and one of them turned fierce at every meal, eating like someone might snatch the bowl away.

The first cat I ever learned to tube-feed was diabetic. The owner hadn’t noticed anything until he came in very sick, but we pulled him through. Now he eats a prescription diet, gets his insulin, and comes back for regular glucose checks. At his last visit he looked bright and alert.

A diabetic cat is a manageable cat. The first month takes some getting used to, then it becomes routine. A few things matter more than they sound.

Weigh your cat regularly. A digital baby scale costs less than a vet visit and picks up changes before you can see them. Tell your vet about unexpected loss or regain.

Watch water intake and litter clumps. Both go up when glucose control slips and come back down when it improves, which makes them the easiest way to notice a change at home.

Give insulin at the times your vet set, at the same times each day. If you miss a dose or aren’t sure whether it was given, don’t give another; call your vet, because an extra dose can cause dangerously low blood sugar. If more than one person looks after the cat, write each injection down so no one doubles up.

Keep corn syrup or honey at home. If your cat becomes wobbly, disoriented, or hard to rouse after an insulin dose, it may be low blood sugar: rub a little on the gums and go straight to the vet. It can save his life.

For older cats who don’t have diabetes, regular checkups with bloodwork are the surest way to catch it before symptoms appear, along with kidney disease and hyperthyroidism. The senior cat care guide covers what to check and how often.

For a newly diagnosed cat, the next few months matter most. Careful care during that time pays off, and some cats go into remission and stop injections altogether.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the early signs of diabetes in cats? The usual signs are drinking more, larger or more frequent urine clumps, a bigger appetite, and weight loss despite eating well. Several of these together in a cat over 7 mean it’s time for bloodwork; diabetes and hyperthyroidism are the common causes. Later, appetite drops, muscle wastes, and some cats develop a plantigrade stance, walking flat on the whole back foot.

Can feline diabetes be cured? Many cats go into remission and no longer need insulin or oral medication. Rates range from about 25% to over 80%, depending on how early treatment starts and how well diet and blood sugar are controlled, and starting within months of diagnosis matters most. Remission isn’t a cure: the underlying tendency remains and cats can relapse, but many stay off medication for a year or longer.

Do all diabetic cats need insulin injections? Not always. Oral medications given once a day are now an option for some newly diagnosed, stable cats. But a cat who has had insulin before, or can no longer make enough insulin, can develop ketoacidosis on them, so those cats still need insulin injections. Your vet decides based on bloodwork and treatment history.

What is diabetic ketoacidosis in cats? Diabetic ketoacidosis, or DKA, is a life-threatening complication: cells that can’t use glucose push the body to break down fat, producing acidic ketones faster than it can clear them. Cats in DKA stop eating, vomit, become weak and dehydrated, and may breathe fast. It can get worse within hours and needs hospital treatment. A diabetic cat with these signs should go to the vet immediately, not be watched at home.

References

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Written by · Founder of Furwise, vet assistant